It wasn't that good, the waves were kind of smallish but we surfed for a bit anyway. The waves started catching up a bit later on and we were catching a few good ones.
Then, just when I was about to call it a day, a set came and I caught a bigger wave, droped right, grabbing the rail, the waved closed above me and it was magic, my first barrel even, crusing for a few seconds inside the barrel before the all wave closed on me..... man that was really nice.
Gusy had the camera and these are the two best pictures of the day:
Rp
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